Thursday, November 02, 2006
1st November In which bowling makes a surprise appearance
1st November
Decided to have a lazy day so hung around the pool and made a nuisance of myself. We have guests from many countries here, Wim and Carrie from the Netherlands, who used to work in Indonesia and Malaysia, a German couple who I think do not talk to the other guests, an Indonesian couple and their young daughters who also do not talk to other guests, 2 Scottish couples now naturalised in Oz who make up for the other people who don’t talk and constantly remind us of the all the places they go using their impressive portfolio of timeshsare, Peter and Geraldine of whom I have already written, an English (possibly) couple and shock horror a couple with an horological separation disadvantage.
Many staff at the hotel but they can afford them based on the salaries paid generally in Bali. 2 shifts daily 7am until 3pm and 3 until 11pm with night watchman security. All the girls and boys are extremely attentive, helpful, generous and genuine in their desire to provide everything the guests need. They love to hear stories of all our different countries and customs and are very serious when it comes to learning our languages, especially English.
Decided at the last minute not to have the resort barbecue dinner and took a taxi to Kuta, location of the first Bali bombing. Got dropped off at Kuta Central,
“Shopping Centre Mata Hari is good shopping Mr Derek your girlfriend and daughter love it when you bring them when come back. You visit and see” Yes they probably would so good job they are not here.
Kuta is exactly the same as any European tourist holiday resort where shopping and some frankly disgusting looking restaurants all vie for your dollar or Rupiah. However stumbled across Paradiso Bowling, 18 lanes and with a pro shop. Obviously would have been rude to not have at least had a game to try the lanes. Had to use house ball and (the only reason any of us go bowling at all) wear those out there fashion items, bowling shoes. No 16lb balls so made do with 14lb. Lanes were wooden and condition much better than I expected, but regrettable did not fare too well with a 178 and 168 pair of game scores. Better than I generally do at Croughton though! Went back up to the main road after and walked into the first restaurant I came to. Bubba Gump’s Shrimp Factory! I kid you not. Based loosely on the Forrest Gump film (which plays on a never ending loop on the TV mounted in view of every table) it is, never the less fast, fun, and with surprisingly, reasonably good food. On your visit do remember to turn over the car license(sic) plate from “RUN FORREST RUN” to “STOP FORREST STOP” to call your waiter/waitress remembering also to shout the phrase as well. They shout back to you and appear at your table immediately. Order a Margherita and be prepared for an ear splitting rendition of something akin to a song? from all staff. One member of the serving team was a good card magician and entertained each table with different tricks and jokes. If on honeymoon avoid it like the plague. Trust me. They were Japanese and she looked terrified.
All in all a good value evenings dinner and entertainment. Not bad for a lucky dip choice.
Decided to have a lazy day so hung around the pool and made a nuisance of myself. We have guests from many countries here, Wim and Carrie from the Netherlands, who used to work in Indonesia and Malaysia, a German couple who I think do not talk to the other guests, an Indonesian couple and their young daughters who also do not talk to other guests, 2 Scottish couples now naturalised in Oz who make up for the other people who don’t talk and constantly remind us of the all the places they go using their impressive portfolio of timeshsare, Peter and Geraldine of whom I have already written, an English (possibly) couple and shock horror a couple with an horological separation disadvantage.
Many staff at the hotel but they can afford them based on the salaries paid generally in Bali. 2 shifts daily 7am until 3pm and 3 until 11pm with night watchman security. All the girls and boys are extremely attentive, helpful, generous and genuine in their desire to provide everything the guests need. They love to hear stories of all our different countries and customs and are very serious when it comes to learning our languages, especially English.
Decided at the last minute not to have the resort barbecue dinner and took a taxi to Kuta, location of the first Bali bombing. Got dropped off at Kuta Central,
“Shopping Centre Mata Hari is good shopping Mr Derek your girlfriend and daughter love it when you bring them when come back. You visit and see” Yes they probably would so good job they are not here.
Kuta is exactly the same as any European tourist holiday resort where shopping and some frankly disgusting looking restaurants all vie for your dollar or Rupiah. However stumbled across Paradiso Bowling, 18 lanes and with a pro shop. Obviously would have been rude to not have at least had a game to try the lanes. Had to use house ball and (the only reason any of us go bowling at all) wear those out there fashion items, bowling shoes. No 16lb balls so made do with 14lb. Lanes were wooden and condition much better than I expected, but regrettable did not fare too well with a 178 and 168 pair of game scores. Better than I generally do at Croughton though! Went back up to the main road after and walked into the first restaurant I came to. Bubba Gump’s Shrimp Factory! I kid you not. Based loosely on the Forrest Gump film (which plays on a never ending loop on the TV mounted in view of every table) it is, never the less fast, fun, and with surprisingly, reasonably good food. On your visit do remember to turn over the car license(sic) plate from “RUN FORREST RUN” to “STOP FORREST STOP” to call your waiter/waitress remembering also to shout the phrase as well. They shout back to you and appear at your table immediately. Order a Margherita and be prepared for an ear splitting rendition of something akin to a song? from all staff. One member of the serving team was a good card magician and entertained each table with different tricks and jokes. If on honeymoon avoid it like the plague. Trust me. They were Japanese and she looked terrified.
All in all a good value evenings dinner and entertainment. Not bad for a lucky dip choice.
31st October Turtle Island and yoghurt
Me and fruit bat just hanging out on the island of Pulau Serangan (Turtle Island)
31 October
Today I took a half day trip with Nusa my faithful Passepartout and Nyoman our driver. Went to a beach area around Nusa Dua in South Bali and took a glass bottom speed boat out to the island of Pulau Serangan also known as Turtle Island. It used to used by the turtles to lay their eggs but this no longer happens, most likely due to the incredible profusion of water sports companies along the adjacent beach lines making it impossible for the turtles to return. They now keep around 100 turtles for tourists but return them to the sea and replace them with different ones every month. Did get some good photos. Also they keep a python who weighs over 20kgs and eats a live chicken weekly. A fruit bat who was raised by the centre from a baby, is released every night into the wild but always returns and is waiting for his breakfast in the morning when they come to work. The staff say they reckon he’s out looking for girls at night and comes home ‘cause it’s easier than finding food for himself. They home an owl and a Monitor Lizard, the latter weighing probably twice as much as the python and about 4 to 5 feet long. His tongue was smooth and tickly and he ‘smelt’ me with it. By the way fruit bat was huge as you will see by the photo, and had a lovely light and dark furry head. The wings were more a leathery skin feel but quite strong. Turtle Island centre is, like most tourist businesses suffering severely from the effects of the 2nd Bali bombings at Jimbaran Bay and Sanur 2004. The Bali people say the Americans are the most notable absentees………………….. No offence meant Barbara, Cheryl and Gwen.
Back to the beach and the MPV and off we went to Pura Luhur Uluwatu. Uluwatu meaning high stone as the temple of stone is set on the 600ft high cliff top. As always with temples you cannot enter through the main split gate (Candi Bentaur) unless you are a worshipper and there is a ceremony to attend. So always limited photography opportunities. One drawback to visiting this temple is the wild monkeys who have made their home in and around the temple. The are aggressive, scavenging and lightning quick. Saw some Germans taking photos and while they were distracted the monkeys snatched their water bottle and a hat. I’m told the only way of getting your stolen goods back is to pay the local guides and guardians to try and bribe the monkeys with peanuts and food to return them, though this is by no means assured. End of tour and back to Royal Bali Beach Club resort for my full massage.
Wayan , (there are many Wayans in Bali, and Made’s and Komang’s and Ketut’s too which I’ll explain later), the masseur of Onsite Buda Massage is a first class masseur and one of the few massage, Shiatsu and reflexology instructors in Bali. My package was the Royal Jimbaran consisting of special Shiatsu massage with focus on acupressure points and gentle stretching of the muscles and limbs using aromatherapy oils. This followed by a traditional facial treatment including facial scrub, clay? face mask, and 5 minutes massage of key acupressure point in foot, face, neck, shoulder and hands. To finish with, a traditional massage, body scrub and exfoliation and skin moisturisation by way of yoghurt. All this took 2 and a half deeply relaxing hours during which after about an hour in at a very rough guess, I fell asleep for a while! Having been finally coated and rubbed roughly with an exfoliator he applied liberal coatings of yoghurt to my person and then directed me to my bath which he had begun filling. Having yoghurt applied externally is as disturbing as having to eat it and I fear I shall now be mentally scarred for the rest of my days. However the end result of this experience is I feel relaxed, refreshed, invigorated and many little muscle niggles appear to have gone. Tomorrow may prove otherwise. . My skin? Well I suffered a small allergic reaction to something he applied and I had an itchy rash over part of my chest, across my shoulders and a small part of my back. Some 7 hours after the massage it has all quite cleared and I am left with smooth wrinkle free silky shiny skin. I blame the yoghurt.
Oh btw, ordered a made to measure suit. Lightweight cotton rich material for hot weather, cost RP1,375,000 about £80.
Tuesday, October 31, 2006
30th October A brief history and tour Central Bali
Gunung Batur from restaurant balcony in Kintamani30th October
Trip and tour today to me know not where. Rush breakfast and off we go. Met by Wayan, (hotel assistant manager and Director of Bali Travel and Tours Company) to introduce me to the driver from the hotel with hotel Toyota Kijang 4x4 and tour guide operative to explain and educate. One to one tour no other passengers and can take as long or short a time as I want at all destinations. Today’s itinerary is, Kuta to watch a traditional Balinese dance depicting the dragon-like Barong and his battle for good, (order, harmony and peace), with Rangda for evil, (chaos, illness and harm). Then onto Celuk to witness silver and gold jewellery making, Ubud’s painting studio, Tampak Siring the Holy water spring Temple, Kintamani for buffet lunch and views of the volcano crater and lake of Gunung (mount) Batur. Finally make our way across to Besakih, the Balinese Mother Temple. Off we go through rush traffic to Kuta and an open air theatre to watch battle of good against evil. Very good story and great visual treat, the costumes, the dancing and music all traditional from thousands of years back. The moral of the play always being apparently, that good does not defeat bad but with it being inevitable that good and bad things will happen in life, that they learn to live in harmony.
On toward Celuk and we decamp into a compound surrounded on 3 sides by low wooden and concrete buildings with one on the left having 6 women at tables sitting outside. A petite Balinese girl of about 4ft 10in then whisks me to the first woman on the left and introduces the process she is completing with the silver. No exaggeration she was applying the tiniest balls of specks of silver as decoration to an already small orb which was to form part of an earring. Each of these women were performing similar intricacies in the making of these fine pieces of hand crafted jewellery. Then wandered around the shop viewing all the completed jewellery and listened in to some bargaining. This is obligatory in most of Bali from buying an egg to negotiating on property. Seem that you start off at approx a third to one half of the original starting price but the rules are a bit vague and depends on the product. With jewellery seems about 70% is the best discount you can hope for.
Up the road again to Ubud and the painters bungalows. Seems like a co-operative of painters have formed an area where they can paint, learn and teach and then sell their results to an unsuspecting public. Sorry, that might seem cruel but how many people know the quality of a painting or it’s worth? The paintings range from original Balinese style, through impressionism to a fusion of old and new, with a few monochrome thrown in. If you know what you like and you like what you see then maybe, but you’re always going to start price haggling from their perspective and still finish at what they want. With the jewellery you have an educated guess based on UK prices to guide you and if you end up on the low side of the approx UK price you can be happy. Yes I know, it’s part of the experience and bah humbug to you too! Only stayed at paintings for about 15 minutes and off we go to Tampak Siring.
This is the sacred spring temple collecting water from near the source of a river and apparently has never dried up. It is an important place to Balinese as id dispenses different types of holy water dependant on the offerings made. It consists of a number of different bathing pools many of which now have carp in. Better not take take your fishing rod though!
On towards lunch at Kintamani and expected spectacular vies of Gunang Butar and Lake Butar. Not the clearest of days for good views when we arrive. Lunch was Eat as Much as You Like at franchise option in Bali for EAMAYL of Oxford and Aylesbury. Just joking (I think) as it was very similar. The tea, deep fried banana fritters and the views were better though! The views were partially obscured by low cloud and a haze, but what I did see was quite good. We are on the rim (caldera) of the original crater of an active volcano which spectacularly blew it’s top way back in history. Inside this caldera is a new volcano mount created by an eruption in 1917 and a natural lake, which provides the water for irrigation of rice and crop fields of East and Central Bali.
Pura (Temple) Besakih next. This is the oldest and most important temple in Bali. Originally built around 8th Century it has been almost completely destroyed and rebuilt over the intervening years, due to volcanic activity. Pura Besakih is built over approximately a square mile and is the largest Temple in Bali. It is used for the main worshipping ceremonies which occur every year, every 10 years a more important ceremony and every 100 years the most important Balinese Hindu ceremony. This Temple is huge and took us over an hour to walk only part of it missing out large chunks. Its other main feature is its elevation looking down over the valley and a large part of eastern Bali. Had to walk uphill for a km to reach the temple and nearly another 4 walking around and I lost count of the number of steps we climbed. Also it has the tallest and with most tiers meru (pagoda) but I managed to miss that and didn’t take any photos. But there is one of a 7 tiered meru by way of consolation. It was downhill all the way after that and a well earned bottle of bee….. water. Back to the hotel and met an expat and his Aussie wife living in Melbourne and having their 3rd holiday at Royal Bali Beach Club, this year! More about them separately I think. Suffice to say I spent the evening with them listening to fascinating stories of Indonesian travel, RAF, Aussie Radio Indonesia, and retirement. And so ended another fascinating, fact filled, hot and sticky day.
Labels: Bali, Besakih, Celuk Silver, Gunung Batur, Kuta, Lake Batur, Royal Bali Beachclub, Tampak Siring, Ubud
29th October Round the pool
29th October
Quietish day today mostly lazing round the pool and taking the rays. Learnt a bit about the local culture and places to visit whilst talking to the other residents, many of whom have been visiting Bali for 20 or more years. Some of the staff speak quite good English and have taught me more about their religions and culture. Local guy came round the pool offering free 5 minute intro into massage, reflexology, aromatherapy and something else I can’t remember but will tell you about later. He was pretty good because he said I had bad muscle and tendon knots and tenseness in my bowling arm shoulder, which I do! So , anyway, I booked a full two and a half hour total treatment, it must be the new age man in me. (Plus he said it would make me feel and look younger!) He said it would cost RP350,000, now by my reckoning and I’m getting better at it, that is US$35 or £22 approx.
Took a brief walk up the road from the resort. Hell, it’s motorcycle alley here. Weaving about all over the road, talking to their friends 2 or 3 abreast on the road, no helmets, 2, 3 and even 4 to a motorbike. I especially liked the one riding his bike one handed with his cockerel under the other arm!
At dinner tonight in the resort we were treated to a traditional Balinese dance and music performance. Against my expectations turned out to be pretty good, very colourful and, help! Participatory. Best bit was a story to dance and music not dissimilar to a cross between Beauty and the Beast and the ending of Snow White where the Prince awakens her from her sleep by a kiss. Except she was shaken awake violently by a monster like a cross between a cat and a dragon.
Met 2 retired Canadian Mounties on an Eastern tour with their lawyer friend from San Francisco. They were all into the Eastern culture and its design and colours for fashion projects they had back in Canada and US. Fascinating people to talk to especially the story about the two of them being in the first all female Canadian Mountie Class.
Ok yes, I got a one to one tour from Wayan with a driver and English speaking guide for Monday, half a day Tuesday and half a day Thursday. He’s given me an itinerary based on some of the places I wanted to see interlaced with some ideas of his own for a more complete insight into Bali culture, customs and heritage.
So lead on Passepartout, let’s see what’s out there.
Quietish day today mostly lazing round the pool and taking the rays. Learnt a bit about the local culture and places to visit whilst talking to the other residents, many of whom have been visiting Bali for 20 or more years. Some of the staff speak quite good English and have taught me more about their religions and culture. Local guy came round the pool offering free 5 minute intro into massage, reflexology, aromatherapy and something else I can’t remember but will tell you about later. He was pretty good because he said I had bad muscle and tendon knots and tenseness in my bowling arm shoulder, which I do! So , anyway, I booked a full two and a half hour total treatment, it must be the new age man in me. (Plus he said it would make me feel and look younger!) He said it would cost RP350,000, now by my reckoning and I’m getting better at it, that is US$35 or £22 approx.
Took a brief walk up the road from the resort. Hell, it’s motorcycle alley here. Weaving about all over the road, talking to their friends 2 or 3 abreast on the road, no helmets, 2, 3 and even 4 to a motorbike. I especially liked the one riding his bike one handed with his cockerel under the other arm!
At dinner tonight in the resort we were treated to a traditional Balinese dance and music performance. Against my expectations turned out to be pretty good, very colourful and, help! Participatory. Best bit was a story to dance and music not dissimilar to a cross between Beauty and the Beast and the ending of Snow White where the Prince awakens her from her sleep by a kiss. Except she was shaken awake violently by a monster like a cross between a cat and a dragon.
Met 2 retired Canadian Mounties on an Eastern tour with their lawyer friend from San Francisco. They were all into the Eastern culture and its design and colours for fashion projects they had back in Canada and US. Fascinating people to talk to especially the story about the two of them being in the first all female Canadian Mountie Class.
Ok yes, I got a one to one tour from Wayan with a driver and English speaking guide for Monday, half a day Tuesday and half a day Thursday. He’s given me an itinerary based on some of the places I wanted to see interlaced with some ideas of his own for a more complete insight into Bali culture, customs and heritage.
So lead on Passepartout, let’s see what’s out there.
Sunday, October 29, 2006
28th October Bali, Royal Bali Beach Club, Jimbaran Bay
28th October
Wake up with a start. What’s that noise? A telephone? What?
“is that Mr Derek?”
“yes”
“Mr Kenny from Pameran property company Bali”
They don’t waste any time in getting you into property investment here. Suggested what he could do with his investment as he’d find rich growth medium there and did he realise what time of the morning it was?
Yes sir, it’s 10.05am, have a great holiday”
Made it down for breakfast in time, must try and get a menu for you to look at, prices make your eyes water plus they add 21% govt tax! Some odd dishes for a breakfast on there as well. Like a dish called Nasi Goreng, fried rice and chicken and vegetables! Might try it another day. Place looks even better in the daylight. Lush and verdant planting, small but inviting swimming pool, pleasant pool bar and restaurant. Staff are friendly and know your name. Waiting for Norm to appear!
Down to reception to get stuff sorted. Safe key or code, internet access, exchange rates as can’t get my head around all these bloody noughts on the banknotes and two of them look similar as both red in different shades but very different values. One 10000 and the other 100000.
Exchange rate RP17000 to £1.00 or RP10,000 = US$1.20. Now even more confused.
“OK Mr Derek I make it easier for you, RP9000 = US$1” aaarrrrrggggghhhhhh!
So, anyway, internet access from the room is dial up only and as it happens doesn’t seem to work. The IT guy has just gone home ill with a headache so now have to wait till Monday before I can upload. This blog is becoming an albatross. However the Hotel office has broadband so I can use for e-mail but not to upload my blog or photos. Mr Wayan is the Assistant Manager and very helpful guy, from the point of the hotel but also because he also owns and runs a travel and tour company here in Bali. It’s called Bali Gelar Wisata Tours and travel. http://www.infogelarwisata.com/ Cool! Ok press the pause button and guess what happens next. Correct.
What do you mean tell us then? Come on, you want me to do all the work? You’re going to have to wait because like all stories there has to be certain ingredients, mystery, romance (hmmmm, better skip that one eh Lu?!) action, strong characterisation and a human interest thread.
Today is a bit of a me day. Sunbathed by the pool and got a bit pink, (human characterisation) swam, (action) had a beer and ate at a nice restaurant (human interest) on the beach at Jimbaran Bay and watched the sun go down. (slightly romantic but seemed to have an ingredient missing) And yes I did take the camera and can bore the pants off you with some beautiful sunset shots. Also quite proud of the beer shot!
Well it’s 12.30 and I’ve been writing, editing, cutting and pasting and uploading photos since 9pm so goodnight. And I still can’t upload to the blog! Night night. The bed bugs won’t bite but the mozzies will.
Wake up with a start. What’s that noise? A telephone? What?
“is that Mr Derek?”
“yes”
“Mr Kenny from Pameran property company Bali”
They don’t waste any time in getting you into property investment here. Suggested what he could do with his investment as he’d find rich growth medium there and did he realise what time of the morning it was?
Yes sir, it’s 10.05am, have a great holiday”
Made it down for breakfast in time, must try and get a menu for you to look at, prices make your eyes water plus they add 21% govt tax! Some odd dishes for a breakfast on there as well. Like a dish called Nasi Goreng, fried rice and chicken and vegetables! Might try it another day. Place looks even better in the daylight. Lush and verdant planting, small but inviting swimming pool, pleasant pool bar and restaurant. Staff are friendly and know your name. Waiting for Norm to appear!
Down to reception to get stuff sorted. Safe key or code, internet access, exchange rates as can’t get my head around all these bloody noughts on the banknotes and two of them look similar as both red in different shades but very different values. One 10000 and the other 100000.
Exchange rate RP17000 to £1.00 or RP10,000 = US$1.20. Now even more confused.
“OK Mr Derek I make it easier for you, RP9000 = US$1” aaarrrrrggggghhhhhh!
So, anyway, internet access from the room is dial up only and as it happens doesn’t seem to work. The IT guy has just gone home ill with a headache so now have to wait till Monday before I can upload. This blog is becoming an albatross. However the Hotel office has broadband so I can use for e-mail but not to upload my blog or photos. Mr Wayan is the Assistant Manager and very helpful guy, from the point of the hotel but also because he also owns and runs a travel and tour company here in Bali. It’s called Bali Gelar Wisata Tours and travel. http://www.infogelarwisata.com/ Cool! Ok press the pause button and guess what happens next. Correct.
What do you mean tell us then? Come on, you want me to do all the work? You’re going to have to wait because like all stories there has to be certain ingredients, mystery, romance (hmmmm, better skip that one eh Lu?!) action, strong characterisation and a human interest thread.
Today is a bit of a me day. Sunbathed by the pool and got a bit pink, (human characterisation) swam, (action) had a beer and ate at a nice restaurant (human interest) on the beach at Jimbaran Bay and watched the sun go down. (slightly romantic but seemed to have an ingredient missing) And yes I did take the camera and can bore the pants off you with some beautiful sunset shots. Also quite proud of the beer shot!
Well it’s 12.30 and I’ve been writing, editing, cutting and pasting and uploading photos since 9pm so goodnight. And I still can’t upload to the blog! Night night. The bed bugs won’t bite but the mozzies will.
27th October Last day in Singapore
27 OctoberOrchid in Singapore Botanical Gardens
Had to get charger for Walkman as battery almost dead. Did I mention I bought these new headphones that go right inside your ear? That is, right inside and down in to your ear canal. Strange feeling to begin with and cuts out ALL external noise. Apparently they are best sellers with teenagers living at home! And the sound is phenomenal. Went to Sony gallery at Isita tower Orchard Road, arrive 9.30. Don’t open til 11. Advised to try Concord shopping mall, Sony gallery there as well. Opens at 10. Bought supreme Mizuno trainers from Mizuno store and smelly lavender trainer ball inserts total sg$72. Cool
Got my charger and rushed back to MRT Orchard Road. MRT Ez-link card was used up and had to charge it with $10. Just made hotel checkout time 12.00. Left for airport and used MRT to use up fare card, but trip to Changi airport only S$1.90! If anyone going to Singapore soon you can buy my MRT card.
Got early check in but no upgrades available. The Premier Economy Qantas operate on their planes is not for the likes of BA Exec club members but for their frequent flyer members. Wandered about Changi airport which is huge but clean. So for the weary traveller we have massage, aromatherapy, swimming, sauna, hotel rooms by the 6 hours, the Cactus Garden, Harry’s Bar on the roof where you can watch the planes and sit near the smokers who are banished from the terminal. Very funny because the have to sit in a specific area surrounded by a sort of pergola which has spray misters which ( no not men with garden sprayers ) puff cool water in, around and on the smokers. Can’t workout if it’s to dampen cigarette smoke or some sort of inexpensive aversion therapy for those without the will power! The terminal has laptop work areas where you plug in, recharge and log on. There are quiet areas with lovely relaxer chairs and even ones that will gently massage you! More restaurants than you could possibly eat in over a week and food from every and anywhere. Really splashed out and had a cup of Chinese tea. Boarded Qantas 767 QF144 on time.
Turned out for the good not being upgraded because sat next to lovely young Indonesian woman called Erdina who was having short break from work in Singapore and visiting friends in Bali. She gave me loads of info and help re Bali and contact details of friend who runs travel co. So will try contact them and get a trip or two I would like.
Arrive Bali and pay for privilege of entering. Exchange rate is IndoRupiah17,000 to £1 (just so you know, I’m a millionaire) Collected by driver for the resort from airport and endured hair raising drive back to Royal Bali Beach Club, Jimbaran Bay. Windows steamed up as too cold in car and 30c outside with 85% humidity. He forgot to turn his lights on until we were on main dual carriageway and I gently asked if it was prudent to turn them on. Didn’t get much better as he made a scooter swerve off road into ditch as he overtook it and squeezed us between oncoming traffic and scooters where oncoming all had to stop. Then he informed me he was a travel and tour company driver. Make mental note to avoid them. Receptionist, Radek, extremely helpful and knowledgeable. Apartment……..WOW Simple Balinese style incorporating intricate carvings , Incense burners , mozzie repellent burners tea lights round bath and probably other stuff I’m too tired to see at moment. Drone on some more at you all tomorrow.
Thought I might finish each country visit with some thoughts that probably didn’t get included but help give a conclusion to the experience.
Singapore govt is bringing in gambling by way of super casinos in Las Vegas style. Where have I heard that before. They have just licensed the first topless dancing club which is right by the Novotel by Clarke Quay (Jock ‘ll be ok) but only found that out last night when too late to investigate (from a purely journalistic point of view of course) Govt also providing huge incentive to foreign investors and banks to encourage setting up of Asia Headquarters thus increasing Sg influence as good invest risk and serious world finance centre. Expect them to succeed.
Sometimes you hear about people going native in the their adoptive country. Not sure how that could be possible in Sgp
as too many cultures in the mix, any way you’d probably explode trying to eat your way to inclusion! Oh and by the way (BTW) Cadburys chocolate does NOT, no way and in any possible way taste like Cadburys chocolate in UK.
Helpful traveller’s tip #1: take Cadburys choc rations with you. (or stay at home, whichever is cheaper).
Helpful travellers tip #2: Mozzies are more prevalent than the guides and books and other visitors tell you. Use repellant and those electric tablet burner thingies in your room, apartment, suite, whatever.
Helpful travellers tip #3: if mobile phones stuck to ears or ringing incessantly with strange tones (ring ring pick up de telephone ding ding bing bing) in London or your town annoy you, stay away from Sg. You will cause harm to someone eventually.
Will most definitely visit again, even if as couple of days stopover. Would recommend it to everybody. I commend this destination to the Blog audience.
Singapore is everything anybody ever tells you about it and a whole lot more. The heat and the humidity can be truly oppressive, especially in the build up to thunderstorms. Air conditioning is essential. Smells are every where, food, cooking, spices, bad drains, sweaty bodies, exotic perfumes in the shopping malls, diesel fumes, smog from forest fires in Malaysia, dust from building works, incense in the markets, coffee, grass but most memorably ……………….. Orchids.
26th October Singapore Little India & Kampong Glam
Bussorah St Kampong Glam looking at the Golden Mosque
Little India Market trader
26 October Picture is Sleepy Sam's:
26 October
Started the day with a walk to Canning Fort. This is a small hill that originally looked down on Harbour Quay and the original Parliament buildings. It was considered a good lookout point and was the site of the colony’s Signals site. Flags were used to communicate to and from the fleet sitting out in the bay of the Singapore River. It is also the site of Raffles’ house again were he was able to look down on the harbour and the growing colony. Around the hill a little is Canning Fort which was the barracks of the British army whilst they were the protection of the colony. It is now a restaurant, headquarters of a dance studio and the huge rooms can be hired for banquets and balls.
The very top of the hill is a reservoir and a military installation. Probably a communications centre as it is one of the highest points within the city area of Singapore. My feet are tired again but need to keep going as I have only today to really do full exploring. Also I’m running out of water again so need to find a shop. (It’s only 11.00am)
Walked on towards Little India and Kampong Glam. Little India is what it says and Kampong Glam is the Malaysian area. Took the MRT to Little India and bumped into the 2 ladies I shared the airport shuttle service with to our respective hotels on arrival in Singapore. That’s a pretty impressive statistic considering there is something like 4 million plus people milling about on this island. Little India: what can I say, the spicy smells, the crush of the milling throng, noisy street vendors selling everything from suits, “make it for you today, sir, you collect tomorrow”, to every food and spice you can think of to Christmas decorations! Not to mention the Goldsmiths shops, loads of them all selling 22ct gold in just about every style and design you could imagine, except Christian crosses, and I looked in 5 or 6 shops, funny that. Loads of food halls containing small counters selling just about all types of asian food you could imagine. These are a necessity to the weary traveller as they are air-conditioned and a welcome respite from the relentless heat and humidity of a normal Singapore day. Plenty of water and cool drinks available and tea or coffee. Wandered up and down some back streets like Campbell Lane, Clive Street, Madras Street and names evocative of India and it’s Colonial past. Some of my photos were taken around these lanes and show the style of houses built back in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. As it is Deepavali (New year) there has been a lot of celebrating and the street decorations are up and very colourful. Street food traders in the old Hawker style have been outlawed by the Singaporean Govt. and have been replaced by large food malls which don’t quite have the same ambiance. It’s all air conditioned and formica quick clean tops and microwaves, but still a lot of traditional style cooking and food but …..it should all be outside!……..
Moved across the streets a bit and came across a set of large warehouses which were signed as Victoria St Wholesale Market. Bit cash and carry. But with a definite smell of hmmmmmm rotting food? Spices? Fish? Make your own mind up. Suspect that early morning would be best bet to visit and watch it in full flow as it was a bit sleepy when I was there round midday. Check my photos of deep salted shrimps, prawns, what could be similar to whitebait and other unknown fish and their removed bits and pieces sitting outside unprotected and uncovered, yum! “give you Delhi Belly long time mister …. You like?”
Carried on into Kampong Glam after that and came to a halt at the Sultan Mosque. Huge building with a massive golden dome which sort of dominates all the smaller 19 and 20 century buildings around. Leading to the door of the mosque was a lovely little pedestrianised street (Horrible 20th Century word to describe a beautiful oasis of peace and calm in a non-stop city). Again photos show it but do not do it justice. My feet were again begging for mercy so decided to stop for an iced tea. Noticed this almost invisible café as 2 westerners (Americans as it turned out) were outside reading well thumbed Lonely Planet books. Sleepy Sam’s is great. Very dark inside and cool, with a book case filled with well worn books, paperbacks and travel guides and local newspapers. Very bohemian style and calming and relaxing. Honestly didn’t want to go back out into the heat. Or the rain as we had another thunderstorm. The assistant, Grace was really helpful and offered me a choice of homemade brownies and small selection of sweets and cakes. Brownie was delicious. If you ever visit Singapore find Sleepy Sam’s and go chill. It is also a very reasonably priced bed and breakfast. The rest of Kampong Glam is quite small but, strangely has a very large number of fishing and angling shops?!
Went back to hotel to rest my weary legs for a while before returning to Little India with the intention of trying some food mall delicacies. However, whilst cogitating the mysteries of the Blog thought I might venture into Raffles and see what the dining would be like. No doubt everything gets booked up weeks, nay probably even months in advance.
So anyway there I was staring at the Long Bar Steak Room menu at my table next to the window by the veranda on my right and only 15 feet from the chefs in the open kitchen on my left. How did that happen? Probably what Natwest Visa might say too when they see the bill!
I had walked in to Raffles main entrance to enquire about dining and unfortunately they had a table free in the Long Bar Steak Room. However, it was still early evening, 7.30pm, and dining seems to be a later evening event here. I was graciously shown to my table close to the open kitchen and by a window looking out over the balcony at the rear of the hotel and down towards the road. I chose grilled/clay oven cooked prawns for starters and fillet steak, medium rare, on a bed of sweet potatoes crisply chipped and local vegetables. These vegetables were accompanied by 3 mounds of mashed potato, each a different type. Sweet, Yam and ordinary. I ordered a glass of House Red (merlot) to accompany. The prawns were cooked to perfection as was the steak but I felt a dessert would be too much and spoil the meal overall. I managed to take a few photos but they did not turn out too well unfortunately. Must practice my indoor, food and low lighting photo skills! From the restaurant I went into the famous Raffles Long Bar. What a shock.
It is nothing like I had imagined after reading quite a lot about it over the years. I had imagined a dark, woodened floor, strewn with discarded monkey nut shells, a wood bar, dark mahogany wood and plastered upper walls with photos of long dead but famous writers and illustrious visitors to the hallowed room. Old but comfy rattan chairs and sofas encircling mahogany drinks tables hidden by tall palm plants in beautiful Chinese pots each worth a Kings ransom. Victorian style wall lights emitting a dim glow and Punkah wallahs would be positioned around the room pulling strings that wafted the fans to cool the thick, smoky humid air and offer a short but welcome break from the relentless heat of a Singapore night. Drinks boys and girls dressed in the old Dhoby’s of an almost forgotten time, hovering unseen awaiting to silently replenish your almost empty gin sling without you realising you needed a refill The reality was quite different. To begin with the original Long Bar was on the ground floor at the rear of the hotel and was exactly what it said it was; a long bar stretching for most of the length of the hotel. This new, reinvented bar is neither on the ground floor nor long. It is a stubby ‘ L ‘ shape with tiled floors, plastered walls with an atmosphere of tourists seeking the memory of a not so long forgotten era. The monkey nut shells were still on the floor though. The fans were in a long line across the ceiling and connected by wire to a little eccentric motor that moved them back and forth creating a small but barely perceptible breeze. Such is progress?
