Thursday, December 07, 2006
2nd December Would you like to go to BED with me!
2nd December (Saturday)
Bangkok again. Down to breakfast which was a feast of options, fried rice, toast, sausages, tomatoes, hash browns, beans, chinese noodles, eggs and Shepherds Pie! Go back to reception and they confirm they will move me and upgrade me from the Topaz room to the Opal room. Sounds good to me. Decide to brave the MRT and take it for a test drive. Best thing to do seems to be to buy a one day ticket but it warned it only covers the MRT (BST as they call it). Integrated transport policy hasn’t reached BKK yet, just like England. End up at a station called National Stadium. Not by design because I didn’t plan to head for anywhere in particular after visiting Baan Jim Thompson. Any way the only plan was to visit the house of Jim Thompson who helped revive the almost defunct Thai silk industry by reintroducing the traditional methods of production and colouring. It was a fascinating trip around his house with a well versed young girl as our guide to the history of this remarkable American. At the end an American lady and I ask a few question which the young girl answers fairly knowledgeably. I ask if we can walk about without a guide but she says no, but is willing to walk around with us again. The American declines so my guide and I revisit some the things I saw with questions unanswered at the time. We get talking and she tells me that all the girls who do the walking, talking tours are doing Uni degrees in mostly English. The job helps them practice their English and helps pay for the course. Hers was like an OU style were she wasn’t required to attend lectures but had certain books to read and essays to submit on a regular basis. She said that she learnt more English doing the guide job and watching English speaking films with subtitles than with the course.
Go to shopping centre Mahboonklong (MBK) by national stadium which is 7 storeys high but about a ¼ mile long with cinema and bowl on top. However got sidetracked by an outside event. Have you ever seen the rather peculiar Japanese teenagers practice of dressing in an outrageous outfit but with a care and attention to detail that you wouldn’t associate with the normal everyday average teenager. A lot of their outfits are based on movie or Manga (Japanese art cartoons who are generally heroes for good) characters. Well that was what was happening together with live bands throughout the afternoon and early evening. I can’t describe adequately nor do justice to the attention to detail these kids put into their outfits to explain what I saw. You’ll just have to check the pictures when I can upload them. Also check out a few Manga cartoons and you’ll see what they where doing. The live group I watched was just 4 guys probably still in their teens and they were bloody good. I’ve decided that BKK is always going to be a love hate relationship for me. I hate the crowds, noise, smells of sewers and bad cooking, the traffic and it’s pollution, the beggars, the areas of poor housing which are just shanty shacks with corrugated rooves, this constant huge wealth of the shopping malls nestling cheek by jowl with parts of incredible poverty. But I love the diversity of cultures, and being able to stumble across anomalies such as houses like Jim Thompson’s which is traditional Thai wood construction in a garden of lush thick vegetation, coolness and tranquillity, literally with a government concrete monolith next door. I love seeing the outdoor events like as described above and the open air temples deep in the city or on a street corner. The Thais walk past these temples in their daily lives but almost always remember to Wai and bow to Pashang or which ever Buddhist Monk or god is represented at the shrine.
I return to the hotel and they have moved me to the upgrade room. When I get to it, it is exactly the same as the previous room but cleaner and with a better microwave and cooker unit. I think the fridge was bigger too. The bathroom was a different layout and slightly bigger and again a little cleaner. I return a little wearily to reception. Why is my room so Spartan, no carpet like in the web pages blah blah blah. The receptionist, Chat is really helpful and he explains that the website is misleading because they show the suites of Grand President Tower 1 and not the Topaz or Opal serviced apartments in towers 2 and 3 which I have booked. I give up because I’m hot and tired and I don’t want to have an argument because I’m pretty sure it won’t get me anywhere. The problem I have is that the Prince Palace where I stayed week ago is the other side of city near China Town and was truly luxurious although it was in a quite poor part of the city and not very expensive. 2 nights there was the equivalent of about £22 per night. Here, at the Grand President, I am paying about £31 per night for a whole lot less. However like in the UK location is everything and the Grand President is in Sukhumvit which is a “very good” part of BKK. I resolve to use their lobby wifi as much as possible to get something out of it! How sad is that!
Evening, and I eat at a restaurant called Zanzibar which is recommended in the guide book and is near the end of Soi (small road) 11 The food is good. Menu is separated into Thai or Italian. Had Shrimp fried rice and Prawns with asparagus, mushrooms and broccoli in oyster, garlic and pepper sauce. Was forced to drink Chang (elephant) beer, so called because it’s the size of the headache you have the following morning, because the restaurant didn‘t have any Singha beer. After dinner went to find Q Bar and BED which were recommended by Manual the bar owner in Patong, Phuket. Excellent night. They are having a music festival and guest DJ’s are playing every night until Monday including Jazzy Jeff and Steve Lawler. Cool! Go first to BED (I think you may be able to work out why they called it that) which has 2 rooms. 1: the Bar which is what it says with guest do, video screen and a lot of good music that vibrates your stomach muscles! 2: Bed. The bar is at one end and each side of the room has wide and deep bed areas really just like Kingsize mattresses. Upstairs is a gallery all around the room with smaller beds I think as I couldn’t actually see up there. It might have just been tables and sofas. But, everything is in white. Floor walls tables chairs ceiling beds curtains and the staff. Guys wore white trousers shirts and jackets and the girls wore white skintight all in one lycra body suits some with jackets and skirts, with white furry boots all slightly individual in style but all the same. The lighting was hidden and played a single colour at a time to the walls , ie fluorescent blue or green or orange. Truly mesmerising effect. Later went to Q bar which is further down the road ( bought all inclusive ticket). This is the opposite of BED. All black with ultraviolet lights and one occasional coloured light which would zoom around the room. The music here was as good as Bar and much better than BED. Got back to hotel 3am.
Bangkok again. Down to breakfast which was a feast of options, fried rice, toast, sausages, tomatoes, hash browns, beans, chinese noodles, eggs and Shepherds Pie! Go back to reception and they confirm they will move me and upgrade me from the Topaz room to the Opal room. Sounds good to me. Decide to brave the MRT and take it for a test drive. Best thing to do seems to be to buy a one day ticket but it warned it only covers the MRT (BST as they call it). Integrated transport policy hasn’t reached BKK yet, just like England. End up at a station called National Stadium. Not by design because I didn’t plan to head for anywhere in particular after visiting Baan Jim Thompson. Any way the only plan was to visit the house of Jim Thompson who helped revive the almost defunct Thai silk industry by reintroducing the traditional methods of production and colouring. It was a fascinating trip around his house with a well versed young girl as our guide to the history of this remarkable American. At the end an American lady and I ask a few question which the young girl answers fairly knowledgeably. I ask if we can walk about without a guide but she says no, but is willing to walk around with us again. The American declines so my guide and I revisit some the things I saw with questions unanswered at the time. We get talking and she tells me that all the girls who do the walking, talking tours are doing Uni degrees in mostly English. The job helps them practice their English and helps pay for the course. Hers was like an OU style were she wasn’t required to attend lectures but had certain books to read and essays to submit on a regular basis. She said that she learnt more English doing the guide job and watching English speaking films with subtitles than with the course.
Go to shopping centre Mahboonklong (MBK) by national stadium which is 7 storeys high but about a ¼ mile long with cinema and bowl on top. However got sidetracked by an outside event. Have you ever seen the rather peculiar Japanese teenagers practice of dressing in an outrageous outfit but with a care and attention to detail that you wouldn’t associate with the normal everyday average teenager. A lot of their outfits are based on movie or Manga (Japanese art cartoons who are generally heroes for good) characters. Well that was what was happening together with live bands throughout the afternoon and early evening. I can’t describe adequately nor do justice to the attention to detail these kids put into their outfits to explain what I saw. You’ll just have to check the pictures when I can upload them. Also check out a few Manga cartoons and you’ll see what they where doing. The live group I watched was just 4 guys probably still in their teens and they were bloody good. I’ve decided that BKK is always going to be a love hate relationship for me. I hate the crowds, noise, smells of sewers and bad cooking, the traffic and it’s pollution, the beggars, the areas of poor housing which are just shanty shacks with corrugated rooves, this constant huge wealth of the shopping malls nestling cheek by jowl with parts of incredible poverty. But I love the diversity of cultures, and being able to stumble across anomalies such as houses like Jim Thompson’s which is traditional Thai wood construction in a garden of lush thick vegetation, coolness and tranquillity, literally with a government concrete monolith next door. I love seeing the outdoor events like as described above and the open air temples deep in the city or on a street corner. The Thais walk past these temples in their daily lives but almost always remember to Wai and bow to Pashang or which ever Buddhist Monk or god is represented at the shrine.
I return to the hotel and they have moved me to the upgrade room. When I get to it, it is exactly the same as the previous room but cleaner and with a better microwave and cooker unit. I think the fridge was bigger too. The bathroom was a different layout and slightly bigger and again a little cleaner. I return a little wearily to reception. Why is my room so Spartan, no carpet like in the web pages blah blah blah. The receptionist, Chat is really helpful and he explains that the website is misleading because they show the suites of Grand President Tower 1 and not the Topaz or Opal serviced apartments in towers 2 and 3 which I have booked. I give up because I’m hot and tired and I don’t want to have an argument because I’m pretty sure it won’t get me anywhere. The problem I have is that the Prince Palace where I stayed week ago is the other side of city near China Town and was truly luxurious although it was in a quite poor part of the city and not very expensive. 2 nights there was the equivalent of about £22 per night. Here, at the Grand President, I am paying about £31 per night for a whole lot less. However like in the UK location is everything and the Grand President is in Sukhumvit which is a “very good” part of BKK. I resolve to use their lobby wifi as much as possible to get something out of it! How sad is that!
Evening, and I eat at a restaurant called Zanzibar which is recommended in the guide book and is near the end of Soi (small road) 11 The food is good. Menu is separated into Thai or Italian. Had Shrimp fried rice and Prawns with asparagus, mushrooms and broccoli in oyster, garlic and pepper sauce. Was forced to drink Chang (elephant) beer, so called because it’s the size of the headache you have the following morning, because the restaurant didn‘t have any Singha beer. After dinner went to find Q Bar and BED which were recommended by Manual the bar owner in Patong, Phuket. Excellent night. They are having a music festival and guest DJ’s are playing every night until Monday including Jazzy Jeff and Steve Lawler. Cool! Go first to BED (I think you may be able to work out why they called it that) which has 2 rooms. 1: the Bar which is what it says with guest do, video screen and a lot of good music that vibrates your stomach muscles! 2: Bed. The bar is at one end and each side of the room has wide and deep bed areas really just like Kingsize mattresses. Upstairs is a gallery all around the room with smaller beds I think as I couldn’t actually see up there. It might have just been tables and sofas. But, everything is in white. Floor walls tables chairs ceiling beds curtains and the staff. Guys wore white trousers shirts and jackets and the girls wore white skintight all in one lycra body suits some with jackets and skirts, with white furry boots all slightly individual in style but all the same. The lighting was hidden and played a single colour at a time to the walls , ie fluorescent blue or green or orange. Truly mesmerising effect. Later went to Q bar which is further down the road ( bought all inclusive ticket). This is the opposite of BED. All black with ultraviolet lights and one occasional coloured light which would zoom around the room. The music here was as good as Bar and much better than BED. Got back to hotel 3am.
1st December Where's the kettle?
1st December (Friday)
Last day at Lighthouse Villas with checkout at 12. As I pack the suitcase I can’t believe how many bits of paper, brochures receipts and reminders I have accumulated since Melbourne. I must now be way over weight limit but we’ll cross that bridge when we get to it. I go down to Boat Lagoon hotel again and “sunbathe” in the shade and swim a lot. Come back and leave the apartment for the last time. Meant to say that the apartment had satellite tv, dvd player, radio and cd player and a karaoke system! The kitchen was equipped with microwave, toaster, proper halogen hob, oven, extractor fan, coffee filter but I couldn’t find a kettle. There was a biggish item which looked to me like a rice boiler. I checked with the office when I arrived as to where the kettle was and they laughed. The “rice steamer” was in fact the kettle. You fill it with a litre of water, boil it, use what you need then it has the facility to keep the water in there hot. Weird! Small tip while I think of it. Buy a pack of wet wipes and keep them with you at all times. They are great for wiping perspiration away and refreshing the face and hands. Each time you use them they effectively cool you for a short while.
Have a last swim at the pool and then collect my bags and Jim takes me to Phuket airport. I shall miss him and Mah, Jim is a real character and I wish him well with his new venture.
Another on time flight with Bangkok Airways and another lovely meal of Duck in light chilli oyster sauce and fried rice with garlic and lemon grass. Superb! Arrive in Bangkok airport exactly on time, collect my luggage and go looking for a taxi. I’m not doing the bus again, although it’s a good option for those on a budget and who have checked the map and know where there going when the bus drops you off. Another little tip, look for the taxi drivers who are licensed and work from and for the airport. They have ID cards to prove it. These guys are generally quite smart and I think are cheaper than the metered taxis. My fare was 700Baht (£10). Bear in mind also that the airport is around 45km from the centre of BKK and can take anywhere from 30mins to 2 hours depending on traffic and the time of day. Arrive at the Grand President about 22.30 and check in. They advise they do not currently have a non-smoking and double bed room as I requested when I booked. But they will upgrade me and move me tomorrow to what I had asked for.
Go to the room and what a disappointment. Everything is white. The cupboards, the units, the bed, it’s really clinical and cold. The floor is white “marble” tiling as well. Look around the floor and there is dust and muck in the corners. The bathroom is all dark “marble” but the sealant edges round the sink and bath are all black with mould. I’m absolutely sure that when I looked at the website the room was carpeted and had wood units, cupboards etc. I’ve no choice for the night now and will sort it in the morning. Go and have a beer in the lobby and find out you can get wireless internet there. Reception advised you can have wifi in the room for 350baht a day plus 4000baht deposit! You can have cable internet in the room for the bargain price of 250baht per day and 4000baht deposit!
Might as well use the lobby then, that’s free!
Wednesday, December 06, 2006
30th November To infinity and beyond the Marina (say like Woody)
30th November (Thursday)
This is another fairly uneventful day, and to be honest I just laze about a bit, read a book on code breaking I bought a while ago and never started. Bumped into Jim (Passepartout) who reminded me I wanted to buy some special items and said he knew the best place where the product was genuine and guaranteed. He then offered to take to me lunch where he and his friends and locals go . We had mixed meat and rice noodle soup with a Pepsi each and was quite tasty but didn’t like the cow tongue floating around the soup. I was outraged at the price of 102Baht (£1.50) Jim reveals that he is starting his own travel and tour company which he hopes will begin in December. His customers to begin with will be members of Royal Lighthouse Villas holiday club. I wish him well and will post more details soon as Jim gives me them. So I can now offer tour guides and travel advice in Bali and Phuket. Perhaps I should be working a sideline of travel and tourism in these gorgeous holiday and travel destinations.
Went to the Boat Lagoon Hotel, http://www.phuketboatlagoon.com/hotelresort/resort.php
better late than never, and had a swim in their pool. Quite odd really as I never anticipated swimming in an infinity pool with the infinity not being the never ending vista of the Indian Ocean, but the marina workyard. The effect is strangely, not the same. That said the pool is huge and very warm and surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens and palm trees giving much needed shade to protect you from most of the sun. The sky began to darken ominously at about 4pm so I packed up my little pool bag and made a brisk retreat to the villa/apartment/house. 2 minutes after I was inside a massive thunderstorm began and we had torrential rain for about three quarters of an hour. Decided at 7 to go back to Patong and Manuel’s bar and try his barbecue. Picked up taxi by the Boat Lagoon Hotel and took the half trip. Patong is still like the Spanish costas, or Ibiza, or Ayai Napa. Full of tourists, mostly Aussies and some Brits, Germans, Danes and a few French. But it is just so depressing. As you pass bars they call you in, the local girls all greet you “Sawadee Kah” hello. “You drink here, good bar, nice girls” Or the suit shops offer you the obligatory made to measure suit for next to no money and ready before you ordered it! Or the money changers, best rate in town. And so on.
Walk down to Manuel’s bar and he recognises me from last night and gets the name right! One small problem. No barbecue as the rain washed it out. I’m hungry though, but it’s no problem. One of his bar girls runs to the locals ‘café’ and returns with a menu. Hardly much English on it but Flat rice noodle thick meat soup seems quite appealing. I only know what it is cause Manual and the girls translate for me. It is really delicious and very filling and had huge chunks of chicken and noodles in it. Not bad value either, 60Baht (less than £1). Talking to Manuel an Aussie who has given up and the rat race of Brisbane and been living in Phuket for a couple of years find out some of the girls working in his bar don’t actually work for him. The finish their normal jobs around 8, 9 or 10 and then go to the bars where they hang around and work for nothing but the drinks the customers or bar owners buy them. Now we’re getting to it. The bar owners don’t mind because the girls obviously attract the men, the girls obviously are looking for their one way ticket outta here man, to a life of milk and honey in Oz or England, with preferably an old bloke who will snuff it in as few years as possible and leave them with the inheritance. Or if they inconsiderately, last longer than decently acceptable at least they are comfortable and can send money home to family. Often parents and a child. Oooh, how cynical! Actually according to Manuel and a number of other people I talked to that is cynical and mostly the wrong idea. The Thai woman have a strong sense of duty to the family and their ’man’ whether he be Thai or “Farang” foreigner. They see it as their privilege, not job, to be there for him, to do all they can to ease his way in life within the home and ensure he is happy. His happiness is their happiness. I would love to make a comment here but self preservation within a western environment forestalls me! You all know what I want to say but our politically correct times and the free of the bra brigade make us all hostages to minority and inferior thinking. However times are changing. Any way having said all that the girls, Sai, Pearl and Da and another 2 I can’t remember were all good fun even though only Da and another could speak a little English. (btw if you ever visit the bar do not challenge Pearl to Connect 4. You will lose. You have been warned.) Also another handy hint. Keep off the Bangla road area as the girls will make you buy them drinks all night will promise you the “world” and “shortchange” you. That advice from Manuel’s regulars. Somewhere around midnight or 1am I think, I got a tuk-tuk back to base. Seem to remember it being very uncomfortable and taking about a long time as compared to a taxi. But the wind in my hair was cool! Oh no, just remembered, got to pack again in the morning.
29th November Red curry revenge
29th November (Wednesday)
Well the fantastic curry has turned over night into the nightmare curry and I don’t feel too good. Shan’t relate details but shall stay close to the apartment today. Read a lot, stay out of the sun, do crosswords and try to upload photos managed one set and then lost the signal. Feeling a bit better by late afternoon so at 6 venture off to Patong for a view of the nightlife and something simple and easy to eat at Floyds restaurant. Have a lovely dish called Floyd’s Bow Thai. Fried rice with peas, onion, mushroom, garlic etc. with shrimps, served in a halved pineapple. Very good indeed. Said Hi to Keith and Tess, who were busy talking to some people so left them to it and pushed off to see the market and bar area Jim recommended as less touristy and more for the locals. There are hundreds of market stalls selling everything from fake watches, cameras, videos, suitcases, shirts, trousers and souvenirs of every description imaginable. Dotted around the main walking areas are loads of little round bars with great names like English bar and English bar 2 or Murphy bar. Most were almost empty , but I walked past one near the back of the market area which had quite a few customers both Thai and Westerners. 2 girls called out from behind the bar “you have drink here?” And a man said it’s a good bar here to me in English. What the hell, so I stayed and introduced myself to the English voice. He was Peter from Vancouver and explained about the bar and its owner Manuel who was from Holland. Stayed and had a beer and a gin and tonic and had a great time talking to Pete and the locals. I think I will return tomorrow because Manuel cooks barbecue sausages and chicken and kebab stuff but doesn’t charge. But he does sort of expect you to stay and have a few beers. The people are really friendly (no, not in that sort of friendly as in the Bangkok way!) and genuinely want you to enjoy your visit with them. One of the ladies who is a friend of the owner was celebrating her birthday and there was free drinks for everyone. My bar bill was: for 1 beer and a bottle of water, the g & t was free...... 60baht! Peter was a very interesting guy and was teaching English to 5 to 11 year olds at Patong British school. Jim (Passepartout) came to pick me up at 10 and made my way home to Boat Lagoon Marina. I’ve done practically nothing all day but I feel completely knackered! BTW, talking of teaching English, Jim has asked me if I would be prepared to help some girls and guys who work in the tours and trips office next door learn more English, so I will investigate in the morning. The Royal Harbour Lagoon lady, Mah from the office has seen the pictures I took of their sister place in Jimbaran Bay Bali and has asked for copies. I think she wants to copy some of the things they do to make rooms even more acceptable to the guests here. I’m also asked to cast an eye over their spelling and wording in the Information Packs that are left in the apartments. Must remember to ask Jim about best places to find proper Thai silk in Bangkok as Mum will kill me if I don’t return with any.
Well the fantastic curry has turned over night into the nightmare curry and I don’t feel too good. Shan’t relate details but shall stay close to the apartment today. Read a lot, stay out of the sun, do crosswords and try to upload photos managed one set and then lost the signal. Feeling a bit better by late afternoon so at 6 venture off to Patong for a view of the nightlife and something simple and easy to eat at Floyds restaurant. Have a lovely dish called Floyd’s Bow Thai. Fried rice with peas, onion, mushroom, garlic etc. with shrimps, served in a halved pineapple. Very good indeed. Said Hi to Keith and Tess, who were busy talking to some people so left them to it and pushed off to see the market and bar area Jim recommended as less touristy and more for the locals. There are hundreds of market stalls selling everything from fake watches, cameras, videos, suitcases, shirts, trousers and souvenirs of every description imaginable. Dotted around the main walking areas are loads of little round bars with great names like English bar and English bar 2 or Murphy bar. Most were almost empty , but I walked past one near the back of the market area which had quite a few customers both Thai and Westerners. 2 girls called out from behind the bar “you have drink here?” And a man said it’s a good bar here to me in English. What the hell, so I stayed and introduced myself to the English voice. He was Peter from Vancouver and explained about the bar and its owner Manuel who was from Holland. Stayed and had a beer and a gin and tonic and had a great time talking to Pete and the locals. I think I will return tomorrow because Manuel cooks barbecue sausages and chicken and kebab stuff but doesn’t charge. But he does sort of expect you to stay and have a few beers. The people are really friendly (no, not in that sort of friendly as in the Bangkok way!) and genuinely want you to enjoy your visit with them. One of the ladies who is a friend of the owner was celebrating her birthday and there was free drinks for everyone. My bar bill was: for 1 beer and a bottle of water, the g & t was free...... 60baht! Peter was a very interesting guy and was teaching English to 5 to 11 year olds at Patong British school. Jim (Passepartout) came to pick me up at 10 and made my way home to Boat Lagoon Marina. I’ve done practically nothing all day but I feel completely knackered! BTW, talking of teaching English, Jim has asked me if I would be prepared to help some girls and guys who work in the tours and trips office next door learn more English, so I will investigate in the morning. The Royal Harbour Lagoon lady, Mah from the office has seen the pictures I took of their sister place in Jimbaran Bay Bali and has asked for copies. I think she wants to copy some of the things they do to make rooms even more acceptable to the guests here. I’m also asked to cast an eye over their spelling and wording in the Information Packs that are left in the apartments. Must remember to ask Jim about best places to find proper Thai silk in Bangkok as Mum will kill me if I don’t return with any.
28th November Floyd on Phuket
28th November (Tuesday)
Off with my new faithful Passepartout Jim, who is taking me on a tour of the Southern part of the island. We start off heading for a hill area just outside Phuket town called Khoa Rang where the views of the town and the bays are regarded as being excellent. As we ascend the hill I can already see we are not going to get the clearest of views today. At the summit we can look across the town and far away to the bays and sea but there is a haze which spoils the clarity. What is interesting is the amount of new houses being built and they are easily identified by their orangey red roof colour. New 2 bed houses are selling in good locations for around 2 to 2.5 million Baht (£30,000 to £36,000) and are set to increase due to demand. Locals as usual are priced out of the market but tend to rent anyway. We make our way through Phuket town and aim for one of the main Temples of the island, Wat Chalong. Thailand is a Buddhist country and temples are a common sight around the towns and villages with some truly spectacular looking ones popping up here and there. Wat Chalong is a working temple with a population of Buddhists Monks.
Go to the headland overlooking Kata and Karon Bays and drive through them. like being in the Costas in Spain. Drive on to Patong where I ask to be left for a couple of hours as Jim reckons I should walk the town and see what their most liveliest town is like. I have a different agenda though because I read somewhere a few months ago that Keith Floyd was opening a restaurant in a hotel called Burasari in Patong. I had mentioned it to a few people back home but no one else had heard of it and I couldn’t find the article again so I began to think I had imagined it. How ever the Burasari Hotel website confirmed that Keith Floyd was indeed opening a restaurant. Jim dropped me outside the hotel and I wandered in. It is an interesting hotel which at first feel seems a little cramped. The central part of the complex has the pool and sun area and the rooms obviously surround it. I walked along a small corridor and turned right at the end where there was a casual dining area but set amongst hanging gardens of greenery and small pools and plant. A fine mist was constantly sprayed from the eaves of the rooves and pergola structures and gave a cooling effect. Just ahead and to my left there was a large wooden open structure which held a bar and seating area and seemed agreeably comfortable. Back out of there was the open kitchen area and beyond that was a restaurant room. Being inquisitive I walked in and enjoyed the air conditioning for a few moments. It was an ordinary restaurant style, clean and quite bright with pictures of Keith dotted around the walls in the sort of poses we have come to know him for over the years complete with hat. Well, he’s obviously got the business going but he’s not in residence today. It would seem that meals from the restaurant are an evening event so looks like I’m disappointed. Turn around and walk out and one of the chefs is walking towards me and her uniform has Floyd’s embroidered on it, I ask if I can photograph her by the kitchen and the result is on Snapfish as usual. With the normal delay too, sorry. Return to the open bar area and decide to have a bar lunch and treat myself to a Singapore Sling. Got a taste for them in Singapore. Sit down and Yaaayyy the man himself walks in and sits down on the other side of the seating area. Cool! His distinctive tones are heard across the bar and it is obvious he is working out menus and stuff. I order a beef sandwich having been dissuaded from the Tuna one by the young bar waiter who was very attentive. I was trying to take some photos of the bar when suddenly I got Keith in the viewfinder and whoops! Got a sneaky photo of him. Unfortunately for me I had pressed the “turn flash on” button accidentally so every one knew what I had done. A young, very elegant and tall lady got up from Keith’s table and approached me. That’s it, I’m about to thrown out of a very upmarket hotel in front of a man I have enjoyed watching cook over the years and not be able to finish my drink or delicious beef sandwich.
“Hello I’m Lily the General Director for the Hotel, how are you enjoying Mr Floyd’s food? Are you visiting us for lunch?” I explained why I was there and she said she would talk to Mr Floyd and if he had a moment he would come over and chat. And he did. Stayed and talked for about 20 minutes or so and gave me an insight into his vision for the restaurant and bar and how it would look when opening night arrived on 22nd December 2006. He is great. Easy to talk to, full of ideas and still had time to listen to my adventures and answer my questions. The restaurant will have 2 distinct menus. One, exclusively Western and the other distinctly Thai. No crossover of styles or tastes, just each as they should be. The bar area we sat in was his also and will be rejuvenated and known as Hector’s Bar. Hector is to be a parrot and will have a partner but final details are yet to be planned is my impression. The waiter brought him over a drink of whiskey and water but it had an unwanted addition, a piece of lime. I and the waiter then got pure Floyd repartee and wit but all done in a generous fashion. Keith left soon after clutching menu ideas but introducing me to his wife Tess, suggesting we exchange blog addresses. I then spent the next hour and a half with Mrs Floyd which seemed to flash by in an instant. I am invited to return during the week and Keith will willingly provide photo opportunities for the blog.
Dinner this evening is, at the suggestion of Jim, at a café the locals and boatyard and marina workers visit. It is very basic, as is the menu. Boiled rice, fried rice, Red curry, green curry, garlic and pepper, chilli and so on. Turn the menu over and you can choose from chicken, pork, beef or seafood. Going against all my instincts to leave immediately I order red curry chicken and fried rice with chicken and a Singha beer. This, I know is going to come tasting of coconut and yoghurt which I hate, hot with chillies which I love, but none the less which must be tried and tasted to say that I have done so. It is delicious. Very hot, way up in the Schovilles range as expected, but has a great taste of aniseed which almost hides but somehow compliments the creamy coconut and is really a great explosion of hot, sour, sweet and aniseed in the mouth. By the end I’m swea…… sorry David, perspiring profusely but full and satisfied. Outstanding value at 105Bht. (£1.50) including the beer. Went back to the apartment and drank half litre of water and 2 cans of beer to try and cool my mouth down!
27th November The name is Bond, James Bond
27th November (Monday)
Having another quiet day today, really didn’t do much at all. Did a lot of reading both out in the sun (very short time), in the shade and on the apartment patio overlooking the canals. And sadly in the evening watched Bond films on tv after my visit to the Boat Lagoon Hotel for another dose of open air barbecue. Well, I can’t be interesting every day you know.
26th November All is not as it seems!
26th November (Sunday)
Wake up around 7 thanks to the next alarm providers and make breakfast. 2 hard boiled eggs, toast and Bali coffee (I was given some by Wayan at the Royal Bali Beach Club) was from the filter coffee machine. Good, but not as good as the breakfast in the Prince Palace, BKK. Decide to visit Phuket town and Jim takes me there in the resort Honda CRV. (for a charge naturally) I have a small map and set out for a walk totry and include the old town now a Chinese area, the fish and vegetable market, and new shopping centre just of town called Centre Festival. Why there? Oh I don’t know, maybe it’s the contrast of construction styles. You know, the buildings of old town in their beautiful and intricate Portuguese/China style against the stark concrete and glass edifices we like to visit to worship at the shrine of consumerism. (oh, and they have a bowling centre).As I wander slowly around the town in the 30+C and rising heat I am constantly approached by very persistent taxi drivers who can’t understand why I want to walk when they can take me in comfort and coolness to any destination I choose! I wander through the small alleys and aisles of the market which is gradually closing for the day as it is now around midday. The smells in here actually make me gag, and I walk trepidatiously around suspicious looking pools of liquid on the floor. There are some stalls still selling but mostly they are clearing away the fish from the stainless steel tray counters and washing and sluicing down. The thought strikes me as I watch them put the fish in plastic bags, tie them, and place them in a box to put on a cart, to presumably take away somewhere, do they resell the fish tomorrow? Do they eat them themselves, but surely there is too many for that. Where’s the ice to keep them cool and fresh? Do they get sold to the street food hawkers? Too many unanswered questions here re food hygiene so I make a mental note to never buy fish from any of the street hawkers. My gentle wanderings take me to Phuket old town and some interesting building architecture. I I notice the buildings are thin but very long, with wonderfully ornate sofitting, verandas and window shutters. The pavements have glazed tile patterns (see photo) and along the road are a number of very large colonial style houses set in beautiful gardens of lawns, blooming bougainvillea bushes, trees and huge exotic plants. Reminders all, of past colonial trading and settling successes. I really enjoyed walking this bit of history and felt a little sad that so much of it was in a really quite bad state of repair. One or 2 places had been renovated to their past glory but all too many were but faded shadows. I am a faded shadow myself now as the heat and sun take their toll on me. My water supply has run out and I need a rest and shade. Return to the main part of town and take a taxi to Centre Festival. It’s a buzzin’ and happenin’ place and absolutely stuffed with shoppers and lunchers. It’s in 2 parts. The slightly older part is a very large supermercado surrounded by loads of restaurants including a Japanese style one called MK! The second building is newer and a concrete and glass structure with all the big name shops fo clothes, jewellery and electrical. Couldn’t get in there as too busy and had a waiting list. Found a little counter area further in that sold pizzas so had a seafood, pineapple and cheese 8” and pepsi. Very satisfying. Made my way up to the second floor where the bowl was and loads of karaoke booths. Sat here for a while and listened to the strangulated tones of kids and adults alike using echo or reverb effects to “enhance” their singing and murdering known and unknown songs. I waited for a while but the police never turned up to arrest them!
The bowl was fairly busy but lovely and cool so decided to have a game (or 3) Bowled 179, 202, 192 in those lovely house shoes and badly fitting house balls. Met a nice guy called Bentoon Rakrangsimansukon the lane next door and got chatting. He owns a backpackers campsite north of Patong at Mai Khao Beach but has not been able to trade so far this year as the government have decided to build a new road past his property and has consequently blocked all access to the site. His website is http://www.phuketcampsite.com/ for anyone interested next year. Went back to Phuket town and went into a department store called Robinson. As I was wandering around 3 girls went past me into the ladies perfumes and make up area and on a second look I think they are not quite all they seemed! As I watched they walked in a more girly way than girls and their mannerisms were so exaggerated they were almost obviously ladyboys! One of the male assistants was watching me watching them and he caught me eye. I raised an eyebrow as a question at him and he laughed and nodded in confirmation. Just thinking a little further on from this if you are out at night and having a few drinks , perhaps not quite in control of all your sensibilities and you are talking to these bar girls how do you how do you tell the difference. I bet it makes for some interesting conversations when they get back to apartments and exciting discoveries are made!
Wake up around 7 thanks to the next alarm providers and make breakfast. 2 hard boiled eggs, toast and Bali coffee (I was given some by Wayan at the Royal Bali Beach Club) was from the filter coffee machine. Good, but not as good as the breakfast in the Prince Palace, BKK. Decide to visit Phuket town and Jim takes me there in the resort Honda CRV. (for a charge naturally) I have a small map and set out for a walk totry and include the old town now a Chinese area, the fish and vegetable market, and new shopping centre just of town called Centre Festival. Why there? Oh I don’t know, maybe it’s the contrast of construction styles. You know, the buildings of old town in their beautiful and intricate Portuguese/China style against the stark concrete and glass edifices we like to visit to worship at the shrine of consumerism. (oh, and they have a bowling centre).As I wander slowly around the town in the 30+C and rising heat I am constantly approached by very persistent taxi drivers who can’t understand why I want to walk when they can take me in comfort and coolness to any destination I choose! I wander through the small alleys and aisles of the market which is gradually closing for the day as it is now around midday. The smells in here actually make me gag, and I walk trepidatiously around suspicious looking pools of liquid on the floor. There are some stalls still selling but mostly they are clearing away the fish from the stainless steel tray counters and washing and sluicing down. The thought strikes me as I watch them put the fish in plastic bags, tie them, and place them in a box to put on a cart, to presumably take away somewhere, do they resell the fish tomorrow? Do they eat them themselves, but surely there is too many for that. Where’s the ice to keep them cool and fresh? Do they get sold to the street food hawkers? Too many unanswered questions here re food hygiene so I make a mental note to never buy fish from any of the street hawkers. My gentle wanderings take me to Phuket old town and some interesting building architecture. I I notice the buildings are thin but very long, with wonderfully ornate sofitting, verandas and window shutters. The pavements have glazed tile patterns (see photo) and along the road are a number of very large colonial style houses set in beautiful gardens of lawns, blooming bougainvillea bushes, trees and huge exotic plants. Reminders all, of past colonial trading and settling successes. I really enjoyed walking this bit of history and felt a little sad that so much of it was in a really quite bad state of repair. One or 2 places had been renovated to their past glory but all too many were but faded shadows. I am a faded shadow myself now as the heat and sun take their toll on me. My water supply has run out and I need a rest and shade. Return to the main part of town and take a taxi to Centre Festival. It’s a buzzin’ and happenin’ place and absolutely stuffed with shoppers and lunchers. It’s in 2 parts. The slightly older part is a very large supermercado surrounded by loads of restaurants including a Japanese style one called MK! The second building is newer and a concrete and glass structure with all the big name shops fo clothes, jewellery and electrical. Couldn’t get in there as too busy and had a waiting list. Found a little counter area further in that sold pizzas so had a seafood, pineapple and cheese 8” and pepsi. Very satisfying. Made my way up to the second floor where the bowl was and loads of karaoke booths. Sat here for a while and listened to the strangulated tones of kids and adults alike using echo or reverb effects to “enhance” their singing and murdering known and unknown songs. I waited for a while but the police never turned up to arrest them!
The bowl was fairly busy but lovely and cool so decided to have a game (or 3) Bowled 179, 202, 192 in those lovely house shoes and badly fitting house balls. Met a nice guy called Bentoon Rakrangsimansukon the lane next door and got chatting. He owns a backpackers campsite north of Patong at Mai Khao Beach but has not been able to trade so far this year as the government have decided to build a new road past his property and has consequently blocked all access to the site. His website is http://www.phuketcampsite.com/ for anyone interested next year. Went back to Phuket town and went into a department store called Robinson. As I was wandering around 3 girls went past me into the ladies perfumes and make up area and on a second look I think they are not quite all they seemed! As I watched they walked in a more girly way than girls and their mannerisms were so exaggerated they were almost obviously ladyboys! One of the male assistants was watching me watching them and he caught me eye. I raised an eyebrow as a question at him and he laughed and nodded in confirmation. Just thinking a little further on from this if you are out at night and having a few drinks , perhaps not quite in control of all your sensibilities and you are talking to these bar girls how do you how do you tell the difference. I bet it makes for some interesting conversations when they get back to apartments and exciting discoveries are made!
Tuesday, December 05, 2006
25th November Still too hot to sunbathe
Pool at Royal Lighthouse Villas resort Phuket
25th November (Saturday)
Quiet day today. Had a walk around the Marina itself and admire the millions of pounds worth of yachts, speed boats and cruisers that fill the harbour. There are many businesses that surround the marina ranging from chandlery supplies , hi tech sat nav systems and electronic and electrical spares to a small cafe that sells delicious cakes. Apparently. So I was told. Never had one myself of course. Go to one of the pools at the resort which is a bit disappointing to say the least. The pool itself is ok but the pool furniture has definitely seen a better century. The leisure and fitness centre is being renovated so no spa, sauna, or Thai massage for me this week. There is a pool at the hotel for the Marina so will check that out later. Internet access is not very good and intermittent at best. Uploading photos nigh on impossible as it the signal drops out every time I try. Back to the pool but it is too hot to sunbathe. The temperature is around 36c + but the humidity is worse than Singapore I think. After you have tried laying in the sun for a while (about 5 mins by my watch) you become entirely wet with sweat and it becomes just too uncomfortable to carry on. I decide to take shelter in the apartment and read.
For dinner tonight the Boat Lagoon hotel have begun an open air bar and barbecue until March 2007 so I’m forced to try it! Its actually quite good though the ants wandering over the bread was a little off putting. They barbecue chicken, beef, fish, prawns and home made sausages, there was spag bol! And chilli beef, rice, baked potatoes and salads, and for dessert watermelon, papaya and pineapple. Pineapple is one of the main exports of Phuket and apparently one of the sweetest in the world. Not a day to set the world alight but fairly relaxing in comparison to previous days. Back again tomorrow
25th November (Saturday)
Quiet day today. Had a walk around the Marina itself and admire the millions of pounds worth of yachts, speed boats and cruisers that fill the harbour. There are many businesses that surround the marina ranging from chandlery supplies , hi tech sat nav systems and electronic and electrical spares to a small cafe that sells delicious cakes. Apparently. So I was told. Never had one myself of course. Go to one of the pools at the resort which is a bit disappointing to say the least. The pool itself is ok but the pool furniture has definitely seen a better century. The leisure and fitness centre is being renovated so no spa, sauna, or Thai massage for me this week. There is a pool at the hotel for the Marina so will check that out later. Internet access is not very good and intermittent at best. Uploading photos nigh on impossible as it the signal drops out every time I try. Back to the pool but it is too hot to sunbathe. The temperature is around 36c + but the humidity is worse than Singapore I think. After you have tried laying in the sun for a while (about 5 mins by my watch) you become entirely wet with sweat and it becomes just too uncomfortable to carry on. I decide to take shelter in the apartment and read.
For dinner tonight the Boat Lagoon hotel have begun an open air bar and barbecue until March 2007 so I’m forced to try it! Its actually quite good though the ants wandering over the bread was a little off putting. They barbecue chicken, beef, fish, prawns and home made sausages, there was spag bol! And chilli beef, rice, baked potatoes and salads, and for dessert watermelon, papaya and pineapple. Pineapple is one of the main exports of Phuket and apparently one of the sweetest in the world. Not a day to set the world alight but fairly relaxing in comparison to previous days. Back again tomorrow
Labels: Boat Lagoon Hotel, Phuket Marina, Royal Lighthouse Villas Phuket
24th November Arrive Phuket
Pool at Prince Palace Hotel Bangkok
Pool at Royal Lighthouse Marina
24th November (Friday)
Up early and pack to leave Prince palace hotel and then indulge myself in their fantastic buffet breakfast. Get taxi limousine to Suvarnabhumi airport for Bangkok Airways flight to Phuket.
Bangkok Airways have just opened a new passenger waiting lounge here at Suvarnabhumi and it offers breakfast including non-alchoholic drinks for free. It is a relaxing area and very welcome. Move into departure gate lounge and sit down to wait for the gate call at 11.45. After a short time a young couple walk in laughing and joking, sit next to me and laugh about leaving a passport somewhere. We strike up a conversation and appears Harry has left his passport at the hotel. Good job he’s on an internal flight! We laugh and joke and swop stories of our travels and are suddenly frozen mid sentence as our names come over the speaker system. “Would passengers Mr XXXXX, Miss YYYYYYY and Mr Derek Scanlon please make their way to Gate 3 as their plane is waiting to depart”. Wow, what happened there? Did someone remove 45 minutes from the clock? It transpires that Suvarnabhumi airport does not make flight announcements and it is passenger’s responsibility to make the connections and board on time. As we hurtle down the sky bridge we turn the corner and there is ……………………. A queue of passengers still waiting to board. Not that late after all. Great 1 hour flight and some of the best food I’ve ever had on a plane (barring Club class BA) consisting of perfect noodles in an oyster, pepper and garlic sauce with shrimps. However I manage to push the dish accidentally off the tray and the contents settle warmly into my lap. I retrieve it all almost instantaneously remembering the 5 second rule regarding food and floors (substitute lap). Put it back in the dish and find I am now minus 2 prawns. Had 6 to begin. There they lurking on the floor, forget it can’t bend down there with tray, water, food and sticky lap. Feel distinctly cheated by this and slightly embarrassed by the interesting oily stain on the front of my shorts.
Disembark and eventually get met by Jim from Royal Lighthouse Villas who urges me to take a seat in the airport lounge as he has more guests to collect from the next flights. Wait nearly an hour for this and then we all board the shuttle bus. 4 of the six of my companions are from Perth and are very good company on the way to the resort. So Hi Peter and Kerry, and Alan and Joy. We arrive at the Phuket Boat Marina and get our room allocations and I am next door to the Perth couples. Kerry warns me regarding Alan’s laugh but to be truthful guys I never heard a thing. As for the couple at #14 their favourite trick was to turn the tv on at 7.00am exactly every morning at a very high volume and then proceed to shout at each from opposite ends of the apartment. English naturally. The villa rooms are of a good quality with kitchen and dining room and lounge area downstairs with a downstairs toilet and washroom. Upstairs, a good sized double bedroom at the front with a/c, a largish bathroom and huge wet room shower and finally a large master bedroom at rear overlooking a canal between us and other apartments.
I unpack and explore for a while and collect a few essentials from the marina Supermercado, including beer (no, sorry, that is an essential) then wander round the Marina and then head for one of the 2 pools. Sitting in this sun is very difficult for too long and eventually give up and go and get showered and changed for dinner. Visit the Watermark restaurant by the marina which is apparently the hot, hip and trendy place to be on a Friday night if you are of the yachting and boating persuasion, which I didn’t discover until later in the week. Chefs pasta quite good but am being stared at by every one as eating on my own. I am told later that the Watermark is used as a networking rendezvous for ex-pats from Europe and Australia mainly. There are also many Thai girls there who I suspect are looking for thair rich man to take them away tyo a better life. As the evening progressed (and I wasn't there that long the Thai girls had managed to attach themselves to some of the men and bottles of champagne were being opened. (Not sure who was celebrating the more , the girls or the men!) Go back to apartment have beer and watch James Bond on the Star movie channel! I know how to have a good time.
Pool at Royal Lighthouse Marina
24th November (Friday)
Up early and pack to leave Prince palace hotel and then indulge myself in their fantastic buffet breakfast. Get taxi limousine to Suvarnabhumi airport for Bangkok Airways flight to Phuket.
Bangkok Airways have just opened a new passenger waiting lounge here at Suvarnabhumi and it offers breakfast including non-alchoholic drinks for free. It is a relaxing area and very welcome. Move into departure gate lounge and sit down to wait for the gate call at 11.45. After a short time a young couple walk in laughing and joking, sit next to me and laugh about leaving a passport somewhere. We strike up a conversation and appears Harry has left his passport at the hotel. Good job he’s on an internal flight! We laugh and joke and swop stories of our travels and are suddenly frozen mid sentence as our names come over the speaker system. “Would passengers Mr XXXXX, Miss YYYYYYY and Mr Derek Scanlon please make their way to Gate 3 as their plane is waiting to depart”. Wow, what happened there? Did someone remove 45 minutes from the clock? It transpires that Suvarnabhumi airport does not make flight announcements and it is passenger’s responsibility to make the connections and board on time. As we hurtle down the sky bridge we turn the corner and there is ……………………. A queue of passengers still waiting to board. Not that late after all. Great 1 hour flight and some of the best food I’ve ever had on a plane (barring Club class BA) consisting of perfect noodles in an oyster, pepper and garlic sauce with shrimps. However I manage to push the dish accidentally off the tray and the contents settle warmly into my lap. I retrieve it all almost instantaneously remembering the 5 second rule regarding food and floors (substitute lap). Put it back in the dish and find I am now minus 2 prawns. Had 6 to begin. There they lurking on the floor, forget it can’t bend down there with tray, water, food and sticky lap. Feel distinctly cheated by this and slightly embarrassed by the interesting oily stain on the front of my shorts.
Disembark and eventually get met by Jim from Royal Lighthouse Villas who urges me to take a seat in the airport lounge as he has more guests to collect from the next flights. Wait nearly an hour for this and then we all board the shuttle bus. 4 of the six of my companions are from Perth and are very good company on the way to the resort. So Hi Peter and Kerry, and Alan and Joy. We arrive at the Phuket Boat Marina and get our room allocations and I am next door to the Perth couples. Kerry warns me regarding Alan’s laugh but to be truthful guys I never heard a thing. As for the couple at #14 their favourite trick was to turn the tv on at 7.00am exactly every morning at a very high volume and then proceed to shout at each from opposite ends of the apartment. English naturally. The villa rooms are of a good quality with kitchen and dining room and lounge area downstairs with a downstairs toilet and washroom. Upstairs, a good sized double bedroom at the front with a/c, a largish bathroom and huge wet room shower and finally a large master bedroom at rear overlooking a canal between us and other apartments.
I unpack and explore for a while and collect a few essentials from the marina Supermercado, including beer (no, sorry, that is an essential) then wander round the Marina and then head for one of the 2 pools. Sitting in this sun is very difficult for too long and eventually give up and go and get showered and changed for dinner. Visit the Watermark restaurant by the marina which is apparently the hot, hip and trendy place to be on a Friday night if you are of the yachting and boating persuasion, which I didn’t discover until later in the week. Chefs pasta quite good but am being stared at by every one as eating on my own. I am told later that the Watermark is used as a networking rendezvous for ex-pats from Europe and Australia mainly. There are also many Thai girls there who I suspect are looking for thair rich man to take them away tyo a better life. As the evening progressed (and I wasn't there that long the Thai girls had managed to attach themselves to some of the men and bottles of champagne were being opened. (Not sure who was celebrating the more , the girls or the men!) Go back to apartment have beer and watch James Bond on the Star movie channel! I know how to have a good time.